Food, cosmetics, therapeutics… Vegetable oils are fatty substances represented in various fields of application. For many people, vegetable oils are primarily raw materials in their daily diet. For others, they are cosmetic products, with nourishing, soothing and protective properties, while some use them mainly for their therapeutic effect, in addition to aromatherapy, for their medicinal properties. It is not possible to separate these different areas of application since the same vegetable oil can have different applications. This comprehensive guide aims to better understand vegetable oils, their uses, their benefits, but also their intrinsic composition and quality, in order to use them correctly whatever the area of application.
This article was updated on 14/12/2022-Which vegetable oils should I use in aromatherapy?
-Which vegetable oils should I use in cosmetics?
-Which vegetable oils should I use in health nutrition?
-What is vegetable oil made of?
-The valuable properties of vegetable oils
-How to choose a good quality vegetable oil?
-How is vegetable oil obtained?
-Vegetable oils, vegetable butters and oily macerates: what are the differences?
Vegetable oils are often used alone or in addition to essential oils for their many therapeutic properties. The fatty acid composition of vegetable oils allows the dilution of essential oils. In addition, these are the majority constituents of the skin, so they are easy to apply, penetrate the skin more or less deeply depending on the vegetable oil and are generally very well tolerated by everyone.
Top 4 vegetable oils in aromatherapy:
Vegetable oils represent cosmetic ingredients in their own right and they are increasingly used alone, as is, as the sole ingredient in beauty care. For good reason, fatty acids are structural elements of the skin. Unsaponifiables are powerful active ingredients conferring properties from a 100% natural product, for complete cosmetic care with a single product. All vegetable oils are emollient and protective of the skin thanks to their biochemical composition and their physicochemical quality. To learn more about the cosmetic characteristics of vegetable oils.
Top 4 vegetable oils in cosmetics:
Dry skin, oily skin, sensitive skin, irritated skin or mature skin: there is a suitable vegetable oil for each skin type. The fatty acids, but also the unsaponifiables and active ingredients which compose them provide this specific care.
Top 4 vegetable oils for skin care:
Dry hair, brittle hair, curly hair, fine hair or frizzy hair: there is a suitable vegetable oil for each type of hair and each hair problem.
Top 4 vegetable oils for hair care:
Classic saponification corresponds to the following chemical reaction to obtain soap: fatty acid triglycerides + soda → soap + glycerin. During this reaction, a fatty substance, combined with a strong base, often soda, makes it possible to obtain soap, but also another product, glycerin.
Cold saponification is done using vegetable oils. It is a natural and artisanal method which respects and preserves both the properties of the oil and the initial plant, but also the skin. The glycerin produced after the reaction is natural, from the oil. In addition to this cold saponification, vegetable oils can be added in excess, that is to say as “surgras” to provide additional care. This addition will not be saponified.
Vegetable oils widely used for cold saponification:
From a nutritional point of view, when we talk about vegetable oils, it is the term “lipids” that resonates. Fatty acids constitute the basic units of lipids and can be classified into three categories: saturated, unsaturated discussed above, but also trans fatty acids. They are omnipresent in our food, which is why it is essential to know how to distinguish them and understand their functions.
If we were to consider an ideal ratio of our dietary fat intake, it would be as follows: more than 50% omega-9, a 4/1 ratio between omega-6 and omega-3 and an omega- 9/omega-6/omega-3 close to 10/2.5/1. Saturated and trans fatty acids should be limited.
Top 4 vegetable oils in health nutrition:
Vegetable oils come from so-called oleaginous plants, that is to say whose seeds, fruit pulp or even nuts are rich in lipids and produce an oil. They consist offatty acids at 98%, free fatty acids at 1% and unsaponifiables around 1% depending on the oil in question. A fatty acid is a chain of carbon and hydrogen atoms, with a COOH carboxylic acid function at one end. Depending on the length of the carbon chain and the configuration of the hydrogen and carbon atoms, there are several types of fatty acids: unsaturated fatty acids and saturated fatty acids. Among the unsaturated, we find omega-9 (monounsaturated), omega-3 and 6 (polyunsaturated). Fatty acids confer numerous cosmetic, therapeutic and also dietary properties to vegetable oils. Please note that as a fatty substance, vegetable oils are neither miscible in water nor in alcohol.
In addition to fatty acids, vegetable oils are composed of unsaponifiables: active ingredients from the initial plant, fat-soluble and conferring anti-oxidant properties to the plant. Among them, we find in particular vitamins A, B, C, D, E, K, including carotenes (provitamin A), but also tocopherols, sterols and other active substances depending on the oil in question; for example thymoquinone from Nigella vegetable oil.
There are thousands of oilseed plants on our beautiful planet, and just as many potential vegetable oils. Today, around fifty of them (complete list) are used on a daily basis for their multiple properties :
There are different qualities of vegetable oils. In order to guarantee the quality of your vegetable oil, whatever the end use, several criteria must be checked:
Mentions and certifications
In the context of therapeutic, cosmetic or nutritional use, ensure that you only use Check the quality of vegetable oil
Vegetable oils are most often obtained mechanically, following the pressing of oilseeds or fruits. The method known as “ first cold pressing » is an ancestral and traditional technique, as natural as possible, which respects the quality of the raw material. The seeds and fruits are sorted before being subjected to mechanical cold pressing, that is to say without heating, at room temperature. Several types of presses exist; the screw press, which pushes the seed or fruit into a cylinder, is most often used. The oil comes out through the openings and the pressing residue (called cake) remains in the cylinder. The oil obtained is virgin, it does not undergo any chemical treatment or refining, it is only filtered of potential organic residues.
Please note that cold pressing may prove unsuitable for certain seeds that do not contain enough oil. Long ineffective pressing would increase the oil temperature during mechanical friction and degrade the intrinsic quality of the oil. This is why there are other methods of extracting vegetable oils.
Other extraction method sometimes encountered: supercritical CO2 oil extraction. Supercritical is the state in which CO2 is found: beyond a certain temperature and pressure threshold, it finds itself in an intermediate state, between liquid and gas, making it a solvent of choice. It is a method presented as very natural, because in this state the CO2 is neutral and respects the composition of active ingredients of the oil.
When we talk about vegetable oil (VH), we generally include, through abuse of language, all fatty substances of plant origin, namely oily macerates (MH) and vegetable butters.
THE vegetable butters have a texture and a solid appearance at room temperature unlike oils, in particular because of their higher content of saturated fatty acids. Among the best-known vegetable butters, we find Shea butter and Cocoa butter.
Not all plants are oilseeds, so they cannot provide vegetable oil. To get around this obstacle and still naturally benefit from their benefits, producers have found an alternative: oily macerates. The part of the plant of interest is immersed in a neutral oil, liquid at room temperature, often Sunflower or Olive oil. This complex of neutral oil and plants is exposed to light to promote the transfer of active ingredients from the plant to the neutral oil. Once the maceration is complete, the neutral oil is no longer neutral, and is full of the benefits of the plant. The oily macerate obtained is therefore an organic oil loaded with active ingredients from non-oleaginous plants. The flowers are generally used, such as the oily macerate of Arnica, but it is also possible to macerate roots, for example carrots. The plants are most often dried before maceration in order to avoid microbial development during maceration in oil. To know more : how to prepare an oily macerate?
If essential oils are powerful products that must be handled with care, vegetable oils are much gentler, and therefore much easier to use. They are generally very well tolerated by everyone. It is still advisable to respect certain precautions for use and to be aware of the associated risks.
The main risks of vegetable oils:
Ways of using vegetable oils:
The users :
With few exceptions, vegetable oils are suitable for all users. Find out carefully on a case-by-case basis for sensitive users (babies and pregnant women).
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Work : Zahalka, J. (2022). Complete dictionary of vegetable oils: 90 vegetable oils 10 oily macerates. DOLPHIN.