Coming from the nuts of an emblematic tree of the West African savannahs, Shea butter has been used for centuries by local populations. Its nourishing, moisturizing and protective properties make it essential in both aromatherapy and cosmetics. Although it belongs to the large family of vegetable oils, it is solid at room temperature and melts around 35°C. Latin name: Butyrospermum parkii. Part used: Almonds

This article was updated on 31/01/2024
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Main properties

  • moisturizing :

    the lipid part of butter, constituting the vast majority of this product, allows it to easily pass the skin barrier and keep the upper layer of the epidermis hydrated, effectively and lastingly.

  • healing, softening :

    thanks to the resinous esters that compose it, Shea butter helps soften the skin. Indeed, by passing through the skin barrier, Shea butter will nourish the skin and soften it, to make it less sensitive to external aggressions.

  • skin protector :

    used for prevention or after sunbathing, Shea butter helps protect the skin against UV rays and environmental aggressions. It is thanks to a variety of unsaponifiables, including karitene, that butter allows this action.

  • anti-oxidant, cell regenerating :

    the vitamin E present in this butter has an important anti-oxidant role. This vitamin will provide the energy necessary for metabolism to produce cells in large numbers, thus promoting healing and cell renewal.

  • anti-inflammatory :

    it contains a high level of unsaponifiable materials, mainly composed of triterpene alcohols. Lupeol and beta-amyrin are known for their anti-inflammatory properties.

  • penetrating :

    shea butter is quickly absorbed by the epidermis.

Characteristics and composition

Cosmetic features
  • Skin type: dry, mature, sensitive, fragile, inflamed.
  • Hair type: dry, brittle, frizzy.
Organoleptic characteristics
  • Appearance: solid at 20°C and liquid at 30-35°C
  • Color: cream to light yellow
  • Odor: neutral.
  • Feel: bold.
Characteristics for formulation
  • Unsaponifiable and active ingredients: vitamin E, vitamin A, vitamin D, resinous esters, phytosterols, triterpene alcohols.
  • Comedogenicity index: 0 (=non-comedogenic)
  • Average saponification index: 180
  • Oxidation stability: excellent
  • Stability at high temperatures: good
  • Inci name: butyrospermum parkii butter
Fatty acid composition
  • oleic acid (omega 9 MUFA): 40 to 60%
  • stearic acid (AGS): 30 to 50%
  • linoleic acid (omega 6 PUFA): 3 to 10%
  • palmitic acid (AGS): 2 to 7%
  • arachidic acid (AGS): ≤ 2%
  • unsaponifiable: 4 to 9%
Physical characteristics
  • Density at 20°C: 0.915 to 0.925
  • Flash point: 250
  • Peroxide index: 5
  • Acid number: 6,000
Botanical characteristics
  • Botanical family: Sapotaceae
  • Country of origin: Ghana.
  • Distilled part: almonds
  • Obtaining process: first cold pressing
  • Latin name: Butyrospermum Parkii

Precautions for use

Attention ! Shea Butter naturally contains latex, be careful for allergy sufferers.

Authorized ways of use

Dermal Dermal
Oral route Oral route

Authorized users

Adults and Teenagers Adults and Teenagers
Children under 6 years old Children under 6 years old
Pregnant & breastfeeding women Pregnant & breastfeeding women
Babies under 3 years old Babies under 3 years old

Storage

Store preferably in a cool place, away from light and heat.

Nutritional benefits

Shea Butter is generally recognized for its use in cosmetic care, but did you know that it can also be consumed? Obviously its consumption must be in its pure form and not in a refined or perfumed form... So why consume it? It is generally African populations who consume the fruit pulp, which is very nutritious. It is a major source of fat, used in sauce or even in frying. Rich in unsaturated fatty acids, notably oleic acid, Shea butter is considered a “good” fat. AGIs are widely studied and described as having a beneficial action on the cardiovascular system. In addition, Shea is rich in vitamin E, an antioxidant present mainly in raw and deodorized butter. Be careful obviously, like any product rich in fat, its consumption must be moderate.

  • Usage tips :

    as a seasoning or cooking oil.

  • Other complementary vegetable oils:

     in the same way as Shea butter, Macadamia is very rich in omega 9.

In case of Cracks, Chapped, Lips (care)

Efficiency: ++++

Shea Butter is particularly rich in unsaturated fatty acids and its rich and creamy texture gives it very interesting properties: anti-inflammatory, soothing, softening, protective… Shea Butter is also rich in vitamins A, D and E, which help nourish the skin andaccelerate the healing. Shea Butter is a widely recommended natural solution for maintaining skin hydration. skin in depth.

  • Application advice :

    massage a knob of butter onto the affected area, morning and evening.

  • Complementary essential oil(s) :

    to promote good healing, you can add a few drops of essential oil of Cistus, of Geranium Rosat or else Lavender Aspic to your Shea butter to increase its effectiveness.

  • Other suitable vegetable oils :

    other vegetable oils can also be used to regenerate cells such as Raspberry Seed or the oil of Rosehip. For the chapped lips, opt for the cocoa butter, THE mango butter or vegetable oils Coco, d'Almond. 

For the Hands (care)

Efficiency: ++++

The composition rich in fatty acids of Shea Butter provides nourishing, healing and restorative properties to the damaged and dry hands. Shea butter also contains karitene and vitamin E which act as a protector of the skin barrier against the cold or the UV rays of the sun. 

  • Application advice :

    massage a knob of butter onto the affected area, morning and evening.

  • Complementary essential oil(s) :

    to repair cracks in the hands,cistus essential oil will be very interesting because it is healing. The essential oils of Lavender Aspic and of Geranium Rosat allow them to soothe pain and skin inflammation. 

  • Other suitable vegetable oils :

    other vegetable oils can also be used to repair damaged hands like Macadamia, THE Jojoba or the Calendula.  

In case of Callus, corn, callus

Efficiency: ++++

Shea butter is best suited to softening thickened areas of the skin on the feet. Its composition rich in fatty acids and its creamy texture is ideal for deeply nourishing areas subject to friction or strong pressure on the foot. In addition, it helps heal the skin of the feet in the event of cracks. 

  • Application advice :

    massage a knob of butter onto the affected area, morning and evening.

  • Complementary essential oil(s) :

    to fight against corns on the feet, Turpentine is stripping, the Atlas cedar is declerosing (limits proliferation of dead cells) and the Rosemary with Camphor vasodilator for local anesthesia. In addition, these three essential oils promote tissue repair through their healing effects. 

  • Other suitable vegetable oils :

    It is possible to replace the Shea butter with cocoa butter or therosehip vegetable oil.  

In case of Eczema, psoriasis, dermatosis

Efficiency: +++

The rich composition of Shea Butter in polyunsaturated fatty acids gives it properties anti-inflammatory and soothing. Its creamy texture is ideal for typical dermatoses. eczema or psoriasis. Studies prove the effect of a combination of Shea Butter and Argan oil on atopic dermatitis. In addition, this effect appears similar to the effect of a cortisone cream. And Shea Butter has the advantage of being able to be used over the long term without the risk of adverse effects.

  • Application advice :

    massage a knob of butter onto the affected area, morning and evening.

  • Complementary essential oil(s) :

    to fight against inflammation, Roman chamomile can be very interesting, also think about the Lavender to soothe pain at the skin level or even at the Geranium Rosat or to Palmarosa to soothe the skin.

  • Other suitable vegetable oils :

    other vegetable oils can also be used such as Borage, there Nigella, THE Wheat germ or even the calendula oily macerate.  

In case of Itchy skin, Dry skin, Sensitive skin

Efficiency: +++

Shea Butter is particularly suitable for dry, tight, sensitive or weakened skin. Its creamy texture makes it a nourishing butter to use both for face and body.

  • Application advice :

     massage a knob of butter onto the affected area, morning and evening.

  • Other suitable vegetable oils :

    to soothe dry and fragile skin, consider Wheat germ, At Apricot kernels, At Sesame, Baobab or even to the Plum. 

In case of Dry hair, Frizzy hair

Efficiency: +++

Just as it is used to nourish and protect the skin, it will be very useful for hair attacked, dry, brittle and irritated and sensitive scalps.

  • Application advice :

    apply as a mask to the lengths and ends of the hair and leave for 1 hour before shampooing. To be carried out weekly.

  • Other suitable vegetable oils :

     it is possible to combine Shea butter with other vegetable oils such asArgan, l'Lawyer, there Coco or even the Castor.

In case of Cellulite, Stretch marks

Efficiency: +++

The skin can be abused at certain times of life. Shea butter helps to restore elasticity and firmness to the skin. It can be used as prevention to allow the skin to be nourished. Its application in massage allowsactivate micro-circulation and thus fight against dimples.

  • Application advice :

    massage a knob of butter onto the affected area, morning and evening.

  • Complementary essential oil(s) :

    to fight against cellulite, the essential oil of Atlas Cedar will be very interesting because it is lipolytic, just like that of Lemon or even Criste Marine. Against the stretch marks, THE Geranium Rosat maybe very interesting.

  • Other suitable vegetable oils :

    other vegetable oils can also be used such as Meadowsweet, THE Hemp, there Calophyll Inophyl or the oil of Rosehip.

For the Beard (strengthen)

Efficiency: +++

Shea Butter is useful as an after-shave treatment to nourish and relieve redness of the facial skin. Thanks to its rich composition in fatty acids and vitamins, Shea helps repair and protect the skin under the beard and soothe skin irritations. 

In case of Rosacea, Diaper rash, Redness

Efficiency: ++

Shea Butter is ideal for soothing babies' skin or preventing the appearance of rosacea. Thanks to its rich composition in fatty acids and vitamins, Shea helps soothe redness and irritation. In addition to its anti-inflammatory capabilities, Shea will have a protective barrier action against external aggressions (wind, sun) or between baby's skin and the diaper for example, responsible for its irritation.

  • Application advice :

    massage a knob of butter onto the affected area, morning and evening.

  • Complementary essential oil(s) :

    to complete the shea treatment, the essential oils of True Lavender and of Tea Tree can be useful to prevent infection, pain and inflammation of the skin. In case of rosacea, the essential oil ofItalian Helichrysum can be added for its circulatory property. 

  • Other suitable vegetable oils :

    Other vegetable oils can also be used such asAlmond where the Calendula. Also, theWhite clay can be applied in powder form directly to irritated and red areas. To prevent rosacea, think about Hemp, to the Calophyll Inophyl or even at Safflower. 

In case of Sunburn, Sun (after-sun), Sun (protection)

Efficiency: ++

THE sun can harm skin and hair. Shea Butter helps protect skin from the sun but also soothes and nourishes the skin after sunburn or in case of sunburn. It can therefore act both preventively and curatively. Rich in karitene and vitamins, Shea Butter helps toabsorb part of UV rays, but be careful to use sunscreen, Shea Butter will only reinforce its action. Additionally, moisturizing your skin after a sunburn will help prolong your tan.

  • Application advice :

    massage a knob of butter onto the affected area, morning and evening.

  • Complementary essential oil(s) :

    against sunburn, it's the Lavender Aspic which is the most appropriate to soothe the skin and make the burn disappear little by little.

  • Other suitable vegetable oils :

    other vegetable oils can be used: Karanja and the Calophyll Inophyl for protection, the Calendula and the St. John's wort for sunburns, then Raspberry seeds or Grenade in the after-sun.

Against the Wrinkles

Efficiency: ++

Rich in unsaturated fatty acids and vitamin E, Shea butter will help fight oxidative stress by neutralizing free radicals, responsible for skin aging. Its regenerating and protective properties of the skin barrier thus prevent the appearance of wrinkles. 

  • Application advice :

    massage a knob of butter onto the affected area, morning and evening.

  • Complementary essential oil(s) :

    to tone and tighten skin tissues,geranium Rosat essential oil will be the most suitable. 

  • Other suitable vegetable oils :

    other vegetable oils are interesting such as Rosehip, THE Hemp, l'Argan where the Rice bran.  

In case of'Acne

Efficiency: +

Shea butter can be useful for pimplesacne by its anti-inflammatory and healing properties. 

  • Application advice :

    massage a knob of butter onto the affected area, morning and evening.

  • Complementary essential oil(s) :

    to fight acne,tea Tree essential oil is the most appropriate due to its anti-infectious properties.

  • Other suitable vegetable oils :

    other vegetable oils are much more suitable in cases of acne such as Jojoba, there Nigella where the Neem. 

Raw, Deodorized, Refined Shea Butter, what are the differences?

The differences between raw, deodorized, and highly refined shea butter lie in how the shea butter is extracted from the nut and how it is then processed.

  • The Raw

To obtain Raw Shea, there are two methods: the traditional manual method and extraction by cold pressing.

Manual extraction processes leave more of the raw ingredients in the shea butter. This traditional "churning" method consists of harvesting the shea fruits when they reach maturity, then removing their pulp to obtain the nut. Inside the nut is the kernel, which is then removed, washed and then dried. When it is completely dry, it is crushed, roasted, then churned in water. The mixture is then heated in a pot of boiling water to separate the butter from the other almond components and impurities. After filtration, we obtain raw artisanal shea butter. This method slightly alters the qualities of the butter because the mixture is heated.

The cold pressure extraction method consists of grinding the shea kernels in a press at a temperature below 80°C. This method does not allow all of the butter to be extracted but it is the method which allows the best quality to be obtained: as the butter is not roasted, the active ingredients are 100% preserved! Due to their high concentration of free fatty acids, raw butters are more sensitive to oxidation than butters that have undergone treatment.

  • The Deodorized

To be deodorized, Shea Brut undergoes steam training under vacuum. The odorous substances being volatile, the technique consists of injecting water vapor under pressure into the previously melted Shea: the water traps the odorous substances then the oily phase of the mixture, corresponding to the deodorized shea, is recovered. This technique makes it possible to eliminate certain free fatty acids while retaining the active ingredients of the unsaponifiables. The main advantage of steam training is to obtain odorless shea butter, but it turns out that this technique also increases the conservation and stability of the butter.

  • The Refined

It is obtained through solvent extraction. This technique consists of mixing the almonds with a solvent (often hexane) in order to dissolve the fatty substances. The mixture obtained is then heated between 50 and 60°C for several hours to allow the solvent to evaporate. 3 successive stages are carried out: neutralization of fatty acids likely to oxidize, deodorization, then discoloration. Refining Shea butter requires an astronomical quantity of almonds of more or less good quality since the butter obtained will no longer have all of its active ingredients.

Did you know ? In English, the term "refined", which means refined, does not differentiate deodorized butters from refined butters. So be wary of how the butter is obtained, and of the manufacturer's claims!

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Bibliography

Publication: Jirabundansuk, P., Ophaswongse, S., Udompataikul, M. (2014) Comparative Trial of Moisturizer Containing Spent Grain Wax, Butyrospermum parkii Extract, Argania spinosa Kernel Oil vs. 1% Hydrocortisone Cream in the Treatment of Childhood Atopic Dermatitis.

Publication: Amougou M., Gabrielle E. (2009). Study of the moisturizing effect of shea butter and argan oil.

Publication: Ziba L. & Yameogo F. (2002). The benefits of shea for rural populations, communities and countries.

Work : Pobeda, M. (2014). The benefits of vegetable oils: Learn to know them and use them for your health and beauty. Poessneck, Germany: Marabout.

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