Originally from the deserts of South America, Jojoba vegetable oil has been used for centuries for its very interesting virtues. Its use is exclusively reserved in cosmetology for skin care, promoting the beauty of skin tissue. Moisturizing, it can be used for both oily and dry skin due to its ability to regulate and maintain a perfect balance. Likewise, it will constitute an intense hair treatment for all hair types. Latin name: Simmondsia chinensis Link. Part used: Nuts.

This article was updated on 05/10/2023

Main properties

  • stabilizer :

    jojoba vegetable oil greatly improves the stability of cosmetic products that include it in their composition.

  • skin pH regulator :

    this vegetable oil maintains the skin's acidity balance. It increases the too low pH of dry skin and reduces the too high pH of oily skin.

  • sebum regulator :

    this vegetable oil regulates sebum production. Depending on the skin type, it decreases or increases its production. It therefore improves the appearance of oily or acne-prone skin (excess sebum) and revitalizes dry skin (lack of sebum). It also provides intense care for oily, dry and brittle hair.

  • softener :

    this vegetable oil restores suppleness and elasticity to the skin. It acts by activating elastin metabolism and slowing the loss of water in cells. It therefore helps fight against skin aging and wrinkles.

  • non-occlusive :

    via its composition of cerides, Jojoba oil helps moisturize the skin without clogging its pores. Its comedogenicity index is very low. This property is also of interest to automobile manufacturers to create an additive for renewable industrial lubricants.

  • skin protector :

    this vegetable oil protects skin cells. It contains a sun filter (protection 5) and also provides protection against pathogens thanks to the strengthening of the skin's hydrolipidic film.

Characteristics and composition

Cosmetic features
  • Skin type: all skin types, oily, acne-prone, combination.
  • Hair type: oily, hair loss, dull, dandruff, dry, brittle.
Organoleptic characteristics
  • Appearance: oily liquid
  • Color: light yellow to orange
  • Odor: sweet, pleasant, reminiscent of hazelnut.
  • Touch: dry.
Characteristics for formulation
  • Unsaponifiable and active ingredients: vitamin E, vitamin A, vitamin B, vitamin C, vitamin D, vitamin H, vitamin K, vitamin PP.
  • Comedogenicity index: 0 (=non-comedogenic)
  • Average saponification index: 92
  • Oxidation stability: excellent
  • Stability at high temperatures: good
  • Inci name: simmondsia chinensis seed oil
Fatty acid composition
  • erucic acid (omega 9 MUFA): 10 to 22%
  • oleic acid (omega 9 MUFA): 5 to 15%
  • palmitic acid (AGS): ≤ 3%
  • eicosenoic acid (omega 9 MUFA): 65 to 80%
  • behenic acid (AGS): ≤ 1%
  • nervonic acid: ≤ 3.5%
  • palmitoleic acid (omega 7 MUFA): ≤ 1%
Physical characteristics
  • Density at 20°C: 0.863 to 0.873
  • Flash point: 175
  • Peroxide value: 10
  • Acid number: 2,500
Botanical characteristics
  • Botanical family: Buxaceae
  • Country of origin: Peru.
  • Distilled part: nuts
  • Obtaining process: first cold pressing
  • Latin name: Simmondsia chinensis Link

Precautions for use

Authorized ways of use

Dermal Dermal

Authorized users

Adults and Teenagers Adults and Teenagers
Children under 6 years old Children under 6 years old
Pregnant & breastfeeding women Pregnant & breastfeeding women
Babies under 3 years old Babies under 3 years old

Storage

Store preferably in a cool place, away from light and heat.

Against the Greasy hair

Efficiency: ++++

Sebo-regulating and non-greasy, Jojoba oil is included in many hair care products dedicated to hair too greasy and flaky. Lipolytic essential oils (such as Atlas Cedar or Grapefruit) must come as reinforcement, but Jojoba can already do the job well.

  • Application advice :

    30 minutes before shampooing, massage your scalp with the equivalent of a tablespoon of Jojoba oil.

  • Complementary essential oil(s) :

    synergistic use with essential oils: essential oils against oily hair.

Inasmuch as Makeup remover

Efficiency: ++++

Jojoba softens and cleans the skin by a double action:

  • He softens the skin by forming a lipid layer, very little occlusive, and it diffuses into the intercellular spaces of the stratum corneum (stratum corneum). During experiments, it was shown that the suppleness of the skin of controls was improved by 45%, for more than 8 hours! An excellent daily treatment for skin that lacks suppleness. Jojoba vegetable oil is said to be strongly emollient.
  • Jojoba oil is also called non-greasing thanks to its biochemical composition very close to part of that of human sebum. This particularity makes it very easily absorbable by the epidermis. It therefore penetrates easily and does not grease the exterior of the skin. The pores of the latter therefore remain open and retain their precious functionalities. Jojoba vegetable oil is therefore said to be non-occlusive and non-comedogenic.

The combination of the two properties previously mentioned, emollient and non-greasy, make Jojoba oil the ideal candidate for deep cleansing of the epidermis: by applying it regularly, it unclogs the pores of the skin of anything that can obstruct them, in particular excess sebum.

In case of'Acne, Acne skin

Efficiency: ++++

Can you fight acne with Jojoba oil? Yes and no. Let's be clear, no vegetable oil fights effectively alone against acne, essential oils will be necessary: ​​Tea Tree, True Lavender, Lemon Eucalyptus, etc. But these essential oils often sometimes have a dilution support, and this is where Jojoba comes in. As a non-greasy and sebum-regulating vegetable oil, it is ideal. Here is an effective mixture against acne, based on Jojoba.

  • Application advice :

    Reserved for ages 6+. Repeat twice a day for 10 to 15 days. Place 3 to 4 drops of this mixture on inflamed spots:

    • 35 drops of Lemon Eucalyptus essential oil
    • 35 drops of Tea Tree essential oil
    • 50 drops of Fine Lavender essential oil
    • 120 drops of Jojoba vegetable oil

    More details or other users: essential oils and Jojoba against acne.

Inasmuch as Deodorant (manufacturing), Perfume (manufacturing)

Efficiency: ++++

To make deodorants or natural perfumes, essential oils are obviously necessary, but a good base is just as necessary. Jojoba oil is perfectly indicated, for 2 reasons: 

  • Jojoba's molecular configuration allows it to significantly reduce trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL), without completely blocking perspiration: the perfect balance for an effective, but not harmful, deodorant base.
  • Its great stability will allow it to last over time, without the risk of the peroxide level skyrocketing.

To learn how to create your perfumes on a Jojoba base, follow this guide: create your own perfume with essential oils

In case of Oily skin, Combination skin

Efficiency: ++++

Jojoba oil is also suitable for skin care fatty and mixed, being an oil non-comedogenic. It will nourish the skin, which will reduce the secretion of compensatory sebum, without suffocating it and encouraging the formation of acne spots or imperfections. In addition, Jojoba oil is non-greasy and easily absorbed by the skin. 

  • Application advice :

    massage the skin using 2 to 3 drops of Jojoba, morning and evening, every day.

  • Complementary essential oil(s) :

    essential oils of Rose geranium or even Green tangerine can be added (1%) as complementary care to OV.

For the Beard (strengthen), Beard (shave)

Efficiency: +++

The composition close to human sebum of Jojoba oil gives it an excellent affinity with the skin and hair. This oil penetrates very easily into the epidermis and hair follicles to deeply nourish the areas that need it. Softening and protective, this oil is perfect for taking care of beard hair daily. In addition, it is a very pleasant oil to apply due to its dry finish. Finally, Jojoba oil can be used as shaving oil, replacing shaving foam. Shaving with oil is very useful for protecting the skin from the aggressions of shaving; which shaving foams do not do, which tend to aggravate problems of inflammation, redness and irritation because of the harmful products they contain. 

  • Application advice :

    Apply a few drops of Jojoba oil to beard hairs morning and evening. Massage by passing your fingers between the hairs to distribute and penetrate the oil. 

    For shaving: simply apply a few drops of oil to the skin to be shaved in sufficient quantity so that it is coated. Run the razor over the oil. Remove excess oil with a damp towel at the end of shaving. 

  • Complementary essential oil(s) :

    to promote healing and calm irritation, you can add a drop of essential oil of Atlas cedar or Cistus

  • Other suitable vegetable oils :

    L'castor vegetable oil can also be used as a nourishing agent for the beard. This oil also helps stimulate hair growth. L'argan Oil is also a very good oil to use for shaving your beard. This oil also has very good anti-aging properties, useful for taking care of the skin. 

To fight against Hair loss

Efficiency: ++

Of course, it depends on the cause of the drop in hair in question. Many scalp problems are linked to a buildup of hardened sebum that clogs hair follicles and can interfere with their normal functioning, which can lead to follicle death.

  • Jojoba penetrates easily (thanks to the penetrating properties studied above) into the scalp, loosens and dissolves this hardening.
  • The scalp and hair follicles are left clean and free (jojoba is non-occlusive).
  • Application advice :

    30 minutes before shampooing, massage the scalp with the equivalent of a tablespoon of Jojoba oil.

Against the Dandruff, Dull hair, Dry hair, Brittle hair, Fine hair

Efficiency: ++

Yes, Jojoba oil is suitable for oily hair and with dry hair, but not for the same reasons. About the hair dry, brittle and dull, it is the properties linked to the cerides which compose it which are interesting, in particular:

  • Protective power: like the plant cuticle protects the leaf, jojoba protects the hair. It is therefore very appreciated in the lengths and on the ends to strengthen and soften them.
  • Strengthening shine: Jojoba has an incomparable keratoplastic effect which reinforces the natural colors and shine of the hair.

Jojoba will therefore be particularly interesting on the ends and lengths of dry hair.

  • Application advice :

    As for oily hair, 1 to 2 tablespoons of Jojoba will be enough, 30 minutes before each shampoo, except that here it is spread on the hair, especially on the lengths, and not massaged onto the scalp.

  • Complementary essential oil(s) :

    To enhance these effects, add a few drops offine lavender essential oil and D'Ylang ylang complete (15 drops of each for 2 tablespoons of Jojoba) to make a natural and powerful anti-dry and brittle hair treatment.

  • Other suitable vegetable oils :

    ArganLawyer, Cocoa butter, Shea Butter, Coco, Blackberry

In case of Wound

Efficiency: +

Some tests have shown that 5 of the most common skin bacteria (including Staphylococcus and Pseudomonas bacteria) cannot survive in Jojoba oil, as can certain fungi. However, this is really too weak an indicator to speak of an antibacterial and antifungal oil: only essential oils are really powerful for these applications. Therefore, do not disinfect a wound with Jojoba alone. Jojoba, on the other hand, will be an excellent base for diluting your Tea Tree essential oil if necessary.

To fight against Wrinkles

Efficiency: +

Jojoba vegetable oil cleanses, softens and even disinfects the epidermis. For this reason, Jojoba is excellent for preventing and combating skin aging. skin. According to laboratory tests, Jojoba can reduce fine facial wrinkles. After a single application of Jojoba, on a sample of 20 women, these wrinkles were reduced by 26% after one hour, 18% after 4 hours, 11% after 8 hours. A temporary effect? Certainly after only one application, probably not in the case of regular application.

Scientific foundations of the properties of Jojoba

For the record, Jojoba oil is the historic replacement for… whale white (or spermaceti for short) in cosmetics! Truthful. We thank this surprising oil for saving the few rare sperm whales that remain on earth. But what is so special about jojoba and whale white that they are so sought after? How can we explain the properties that we have highlighted in the previous paragraphs?

Unique composition of cerids

Cerides are esters of a fatty alcohol and a fatty acid, and they are what made the whale white mentioned above interesting (whale white contains cetyl palmitate, a very useful ceride). Jojoba is 60% cerides. It is these very long esters (C40) which give Jojoba oil this inimitable texture (velvety, waxy), its stability (as seen above), its protective properties, and a non-greasy lubricant. Jojoba is today the only plant known to produce cerides!

Exceptional oxidation and high temperature stability

This may seem trivial, but the main problem with natural cosmetics for the mass market is the poor preservation of natural products. And jojoba oil solves this problem brilliantly thanks to two factors:

  • Its particularly stable molecular configuration: the long chains of esters which constitute jojoba are much less reactive to oxidation than those constituting most HV, composed mainly of classic fatty acids.

  • And the presence of antioxidants. So, on this point, scientists do not yet understand very well what is happening: the level of tocopherols, the free radical scavenger that is generally found in HVs which keep well, is quite classic (50ppm – part per million). It does not alone explain the extraordinary oxidation stability of Jojoba vegetable oil. Scientists are therefore leaning towards the presence of a very powerful antioxidant, still unknown to date.

As a result... Jojoba vegetable oil greatly improves the stability of cosmetic products that include it in their composition: a scoop for a natural product, right?

Chemical composition close to that of human sebum

Everywhere in books and on the internet, the chemical proximity between Jojoba and human sebum is touted. What is it really? Human sebum is composed of triglycerides and fatty acids (57.5%), wax esters (26%) and squalene (12%). Jojoba is almost only composed of wax esters. And indeed, the esters of Jojoba and sebum are almost identical! To be precise, we can say that jojoba is almost identical to 25% of sebum. 

This similarity gives jojoba oil excellent emollient (softens and relaxes body tissues), moisturizing (penetrates very well into the skin) and non-occlusive properties… just like sebum, whose production it can regulate. if necessary.

 

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Bibliography

Publication: Harry-O'kuru, R.E., Biresaw, G., Gordon, S., & Xu, J. (2018). Physical Characteristics of Tetrahydroxy and Acylated Derivatives of Jojoba Liquid Wax in Lubricant Applications. Journal of Analytical Methods in Chemistry, 2018, 1–12. https://doi.org/10.115

Publication: Spencer, G.F., Plattner, R.D., & Miwa, T. (1977). Jojoba oil analysis by high pressure liquid chromatography and gas chromatography/mass spectrometry. Journal of the American Oil Chemists' Society, 54(5), 187–189. https://doi.org/10.1007/bf02676270

Publication: Miwa, T.K. (1971). Jojoba oil wax esters and derived fatty acids and alcohols: Gas chromatographic analyses. Journal of the American Oil Chemists Society, 48(6), 259–264. https://doi.org/10.1007/bf02638458

Publication: Picardo, M., Ottaviani, M., Camera, E., & Mastrofrancesco, A. (2009). Sebaceous glans lipids. Dermato-endocrinology, 1(2), 68-71.

Publication: Kalscheuer, R., Stoveken, T., Luftmann, H., Malkus, U., Reichelt, R., & Steinbuchel, A. (2006). Neutral Lipid Biosynthesis in Engineered Escherichia coli: Jojoba Oil-Like Wax Esters and Fatty Acid Butyl Esters. Applied and Environmental Microbiology, 72(2

Work : de la Charie, T. (2019). Treat yourself with essential oils. Why and how does it work? Editions du Rocher.

Website : Tiffany N. Oliphant, NWT (2013). Skin Barrier Protection with Jojoba Esters. Accessed at https://www.floratech.com/PDFs/Articles_MKT/ART06.pdf

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