Cosmetic products such as creams, makeup or any other beauty products are generally emulsions, composed of an aqueous phase (i.e. water and water-soluble components), a lipid phase (that is to say oil and/or fat and components soluble in fatty substances) and an emulsifier to “hold” the mixture. Indeed, without an emulsifier, your creams would resemble nothing less than your two-phase makeup remover, due to the unfortunate tendency of the aqueous and lipid phases to separate (like the oil and vinegar in a salad dressing). Emulsifiers are then essential to make these mixtures stable. Among the emulsifiers found commercially, some are in the form of wax, we call them emulsifying waxes.

This article was updated on 04/08/2023
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What is an emulsion?

An emulsion is a mixture between two immiscible phases, that is to say which do not mix naturally, like water and oil. During an emulsion, these two phases will form a macroscopically homogeneous mixture, that is to say that to the naked eye, the mixture will appear perfectly homogeneous, through mechanical action or active ingredients. In the end, one of the two starting phases will be dispersed in the form of droplets in the other phase. We can thus have two types of emulsion:

      • water in oil : the water droplets (in a smaller proportion) are dispersed in the oil, which will give rather thick creams, suitable for dry skin.
      • oil in water : the oil droplets (in smaller proportions) are dispersed in the water. We can then make light creams or body milks for example.

The problem is that the mixture is unstable, which means that if we let it sit quietly, we will be able to observe, after a certain time, the re-separation of these two phases. The reasons are simple, it is about attraction and density. Water droplets tend to attract each other, the same goes for oil, which will promote the separation of the two phases. The second important reason is the difference in density between water and oil. Water has a density of 1 (i.e. 1 liter of water weighs 1 kg). It is heavier than oil which has a density of around 0.9 (i.e. 1 liter of oil weighs around 900g). When you mix the two, the result is that the water “sinks”, while the oil “floats”! Thus, we will find the water at the bottom and the oil above the water.

emulsion

What are emulsifiers?

What's the point ?

In order to avoid the phenomenon of re-separation of the two phases and to obtain a stable mixture, a third ingredient called emulsifier or emulsifier, part of the surfactant family, is added to the mixture. This ingredient will therefore make it possible to stabilize the emulsion so that the two phases remain well mixed one in the other, but also so that the texture remains stable. After all, when you have a cream, you want it to stay cream! Besides, for the record, mayonnaise is nothing other than an emulsion containing a lipid phase: oil, an aqueous phase: vinegar or mustard, and an emulsifier: egg yolk. !

How it works ?

An emulsifier is a amphiphilic and bipolar molecule, that is to say that it will be composed of a hydrophilic part, meaning “which loves water”, this part is polar (it has two distinct poles with opposite charges) and a hydrophobic part, which on the contrary means “who does not like water” because this part is apolar (it has a symmetrical charge distribution and therefore does not have a “dominant” pole). The hydrophilic part will then be turned towards the aqueous phase while the hydrophobic part will prefer the lipid phase. As a result, the emulsifier will be placed at the limit between water and oil, we say that it is at thewater-oil interface. In the emulsion, the emulsifier is found at the interface of the droplets, to allow them to gain stability. By placing itself at the interface, the attraction of droplets of the same phase no longer exists. They will no longer try to gather together. In addition, certain emulsifiers can carry charged groups, causing repulsion between droplets of the same phase, and promoting better stability of the product.

emulsifying role

Emulsifying Waxes vs. Waxes

Emulsifying waxes and waxes are not obtained in the same way. Waxes are generally extracted directly from plants or animals. Let’s take beeswax and carnauba wax as examples. Beeswax is obtained by recovering (and sometimes purifying in the case of white beeswax) the wax from the waxy cells containing the honey in the hive. To do this, the beekeeper removes the wax plugs and extracts the honey. Then, he heats the cells in water to extract the wax and separates it from other impurities and residual honey. Carnauba wax, for its part, covers the leaves of a palm tree native to Brazil: the Copernicia cerifera. Its wax is extracted by beating the leaves. It is then refined and sometimes undergoes bleaching. A wax is a thickening which will give texture to the preparation. It is also a film-forming agent which will protect the skin, by forming a hydrolipidic film limiting water loss and it softens and softens the skin thanks to its emollient property. Waxes are sometimes considered emulsifiers because some of them can have a slight emulsifying effect, or rather an emulsion stabilizer like beeswax, but this is clearly not their major action.

THE emulsifying waxes are above all waxes, so they have all the associated properties. The term “emulsifier” refers to their ability to emulsify a water/oil mixture. They are made from derivatives of mainly plant extracts. Let’s take Olivem 1000 emulsifying wax for example. It is made up of two ingredients:

  • “sorbitant olivate”: made from olive oil and sorbitol. It is an emulsifier and skin protectant.

  • “cetearyl olivate” : derived from cetearyl alcohol (of vegetable or synthetic origin) and fatty acids from olive oil. It provides moisturizing properties, but it is also a emulsion stabilizer, emollient, opacifier and texture agent (properties of waxes).

Emulsifying waxes are then perfect combined to emulsify cosmetic preparations, in order to improve their hold.

Clarification : A so-called self-emulsifying wax is an emulsifying wax that is easy to use since it does not require the use of a co-emulsifier (emulsifier used with other emulsifiers).

Characteristics of emulsifying waxes

Hydrophilic-lipophilic balance (HLB)

The HLB is an indicator varying from 0 to 20, making it possible to quantify the balance between the hydrophilic part and the hydrophobic part of an amphiphilic molecule, linked to its solubility in water. In fact, the lower the HLB value, the more the emulsifier will be hydrophobic (which does not like water), or in other words lipophilic (soluble in oil). In this case, your preparation will be thick and rich. On the contrary, the higher the HLB value, the more hydrophilic (water-loving) the emulsifier will be, and the preparation will be more fluid.

      • To have a water-in-oil emulsifier, its HLB must be between 3 and 6.
      • To have an oil-in-water emulsifier, its HLB must be between 8 and 18.

Choosing your emulsifying wax

To choose your emulsifier, you need to think about several things:

      • The texture of the preparation that we want: do we want a fluid, thick, foamy, rich, evanescent cream... A water-in-oil emulsion will be oilier to the touch than an oil-in-water emulsion for example, the cream will then be thicker and richer.
      • Your skin type: normal, dry, oily, sensitive, ...
      • The origin of the emulsifier: is it a derivative of petroleum products or natural products?
These questions are important because each emulsifier will have different properties and will give different properties to your homemade preparation.

The properties of emulsifying waxes

Emulsifier : emulsifying waxes will allow the formation of stable emulsions.

Thickening : éalthough present in the form of wax, emulsifying waxes will have the same properties as waxes and in particular the thickening property which gives a certain texture to the mixture.

Emollient : they soften and soften the skin.

Protective : emulsifying waxes leave a hydrolipidic film on the skin. This film helps protect the skin from drying out by limiting the evaporation of water and protects it from external aggressions.

Cosmetic applications

Emulsifying waxes are used in creams, milks, sun protection, makeup (foundation, mascara, etc.), conditioners, shampoos, hair masks, deodorants.

Manual

Melt the emulsifying wax in the lipid phase, at its melting point.
In parallel, mix the constituents of the aqueous phase and heat everything to the same temperature as the lipid phase.
Gently add the lipid phase to the aqueous phase while homogenizing.
Mix the mixture for a few minutes then leave to cool.

The main emulsifying waxes

Olivem 1000

Self-emulsifying wax
INCI name: Sorbitan olivate, cetearyl olivate

Ideal for: CREAMS and MILKS

Skin type: All
Emulsion: Oil in Water
Origin : Vegetable and synthetic: Derived from olive oil, this emulsifying wax is obtained after esterification of the fatty acids of olive oil with alcohol and cetearyl sorbitol
Ecology: Biodegradable

  • Technical characteristics :
Fusion point : 65-75°C
HLB: 9
Soluble in: lipids and alcohols
Color : ivory white
Appearance : flakes or granules
Smell : light, characteristic
Texture : easy to spread, smooth, fresh and silky feel
Properties :
- Moisturizer: olive oil is an oil that has great compatibility with the skin. Olivem 1000 comes from olive oil, so it is interesting to use it in cosmetic products. In addition, its composition is very close to that of human sebum, which allows it to maintain the skin's hydration.
- Rapid penetration
- Protective: reduces water loss by forming a hydrolipidic film

  • Use :
Olivem 1000 can be used in preparations containing between 5 and 25% oil.
The final texture is reached after approximately 24 hours.

Dosages:
- milks and lotions: 2-3%
- fluid to consistent creams: 4-8%

Applications: milks, lotions, creams, hair care (mask)

Xyliance

Self-emulsifying wax
INCI name: Cetearyl Wheat Straw Glycosides (and) Cetearyl Alcohol

Ideal for: CREAMS, BALMS and MOUSSES

Skin type: All
Emulsion: Oil in Water
Origin : Vegetable and synthetic: Derived from hydrolyzed wheat straw and cetearyl alcohol produced from vegetable oils
Ecology: Biodegradable

  • Technical characteristics :
Fusion point : 60-70°C
HLB: 10,9
Soluble in: lipids
Color : pale yellow
Appearance : flakes
Smell : characteristic
Texture : smooth, shiny, silky, soft, non-sticky, non-greasy, creamy
Properties :
- Foam synergist: allows the formation of foam and improves its texture, volume and stability
- Viscosity control agent

  • Use :
Xyliance can be used in preparations containing between 20 and 45% oil. It is not suitable for low viscosity emulsions and sprayable milks.

Dosages: 
- fluid milks and creams: 1-2%
- creams, thick balm masks: 3-10%

Applications: lotions, milks, creams, ointments, sticks, balms, masks, hair care, makeup, mousses

Glyceryl stearate AE

Self-emulsifying, co-emulsifying wax
INCI name: Glyceryl stearate

Ideal for: CREAMS, HAIR CARE and MAKE-UP

Skin type: All
Emulsion: Water in Oil
Origin : Vegetable and synthetic: Derived from glycerin, obtained by esterification of glycerin and stearic acid
Ecology: Biodegradable

  • Technical characteristics :
Fusion point : 56-60°C
HLB: 3,8
Soluble in: lipids and alcohols
Color : egg shell
Appearance : glitter or powder
Smell : characteristic
Texture : non-greasy, smooth and shiny
Properties :
- Lubricating: lubricates the skin and leaves a soft and smooth appearance
- Moisturizing
- Penetrating

  • Use :
Dosages: 1-10%

Applications: milks, lotions, creams, butters, hair care (masks, conditioners, shampoos), makeup bases, makeup (foundation, mascara, eye shadow, eyeliner), gels

Montanov L

Self-emulsifying wax
INCI name: C14-22 Alcohols (and) C12-20 Alkyl Glucoside

Ideal for: SPRAYS, MILKS and MAKE-UP

Skin type: All
Emulsion: Oil in Water
Origin : Vegetable and synthetic: Derived from coconut oil, palm oil and glucose
Ecology: Biodegradable

  • Technical characteristics :
Fusion point : 75-80°C
HLB: 10
Soluble in: lipids
Color : yellowish white
Appearance : lozenges
Smell : characteristic
Texture : light and ultra soft
Properties :
- Moisturizing
- Excellent compatibility with the skin
- Excellent compatibility with charged active substances and makeup pigments

  • Use :
Montanov L can be used in preparations containing up to 60% oil. 

Dosages: 
- milks and sprays: 1-4%

Applications: sprays, milks, light creams, balms, masks, hair care, makeup (fluid foundations)

Polawax

Self-emulsifying wax
INCI name: Cetearyl alcohol and polysorbate 60

Ideal for: MILKS, CREAMS, BALMS and DEODORANTS

Skin type: All
Emulsion: Oil in Water
Origin : Plant-based and synthetic: Polysorbate 60 is made by polymerization of ethylene oxide with a sugar alcohol derivative. Cetearyl alcohol is a mixture of cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol derived from plants or synthesized.
Ecology: Biodegradable

  • Technical characteristics :
Fusion point : 50-54°C
HLB: 8
Soluble in: lipids 
Color : egg shell
Appearance : lozenges
Smell : characteristic
Texture : creamy, smooth and shiny
Properties :
- Long-lasting moisturizer

  • Use :
Dosages:
- milks and lotions: 3-5%
- creams: 5-10%
- balms: 10-15%

Applications: milks, lotions, creams, balms, deodorants, cleansers, sun care

Xyliance

Self-emulsifying wax
INCI name: Cetearyl Wheat Straw Glycosides (and)Cetearyl Alcohol

Ideal for: CREAMS, BALMS and MOUSSES

Skin type: All
Emulsion: Oil in Water
Origin : Vegetable and synthetic: Derived from hydrolyzed wheat straw and cetearyl alcohol produced from vegetable oils
Ecology: Biodegradable

  • Technical characteristics :
Fusion point : 60-70°C
HLB: 10,9
Soluble in: lipids
Color : pale yellow
Appearance : flakes
Smell : characteristic
Texture : smooth, shiny, silky, soft, non-sticky, non-greasy, creamy
Properties :
- Foam synergist: allows the formation of foam and improves its texture, volume and stability
- Viscosity control agent

  • Use :
Xyliance can be used in preparations containing between 20 and 45% oil. It is not suitable for low viscosity emulsions and sprayable milks.

Dosages: 
- fluid milks and creams: 1-2%
- creams, thick balm masks: 3-10%

Applications: lotions, milks, creams, ointments, sticks, balms, masks, hair care, makeup, mousses

Manual :
Melt xyliance in the lipid phase, up to 70°C.
In parallel, mix the constituents of the aqueous phase and heat everything up to 70°C.
Gently add the lipid phase to the aqueous phase while homogenizing.
Mix the mixture for a few minutes then let it cool, while continuing to mix.

The main waxes

Beeswax

Animal wax
INCI name: Cera alba

Ideal for: CREAMS and MILKS

Skin type: All
Origin : Animal: made by bees to form the cells of the hive in which the honey is stored
Ecology: Biodegradable

  • Technical characteristics :
Fusion point : 61-66°C
Soluble in: lipids 
Density at 20°C: 0,920-0,970
Color : off-white or yellow (if unpurified)
Appearance : lozenges
Smell : honeyed
Texture : smooth and creamy
Properties :
- Protective: leaves a protective film on the skin
- Occlusive: forms a waterproof film on the skin
- Emulsion stabilizer: has a positive effect on emulsion stabilization

  • Use 
Dosages:
- creams: 2-5%
- balm: 5-15%

Applications: creams, balms, lip balms, deodorant, gloss, soaps, candles

Candelilla wax

Vegetable wax
INCI name: Euphorbia cerifera (Candilla) wax

Ideal for: LIPSTICKS, LIP BALMS and OTHER MAKEUP

Skin type: All
Origin : Plant: this wax covers the stems and leaves of the plant: Euphorbia cerifera located in northeastern Mexico and/or southern Texas.
Ecology: Biodegradable

  • Technical characteristics :
Fusion point : 68-75°C
Soluble in: lipids
Density at 20°C: 0,950-0,960
Color : yellow-brown
Appearance : glitter
Smell : characteristic
Texture : smooth and creamy
Properties :
- Protective: leaves a protective film on the skin
- Adhesion agent: promotes the hold of makeup such as mascaras and eyeliner
- Emulsion stabilizer: has a positive effect on emulsion stabilization
- Rich in nutrients

  • Use 
Dosages: 1-10%
If you want to substitute it for beeswax, you need to use half as much.

Applications: creams, balms, lip balms, lipsticks, mascaras, eyeliners, glosses, compact powders, makeup pencils, deodorant, glosses, soaps, candles, sun care, shower care.
Candelilla wax is perfect for lipsticks because it gives hold, shine and good adhesion to the skin. In addition, it facilitates the release of the sticks and increases the softening point.

Carnauba wax

Vegetable wax
INCI name: Copernicia Cerifera (carnauba) wax

Ideal for: LIP BALMS, CREAMS and MAKEUP

Skin type: All, but ideal for fragile skin
Origin : Vegetable: this wax is extracted by beating the leaves of a palm tree native to Brazil: the Copernicia cerifera whose surface it covers. The wax is then refined and can be bleached.
Ecology: Biodegradable

  • Technical characteristics :
Fusion point : 80-88°C
Soluble in: lipids 
Density at 20°C: 0,990-0,995
Color : light brown to pale yellow
Appearance : powder, glitter or pieces
Smell : characteristic
Texture : gentle
Properties :
- Protective: leaves a significant protective film on the skin which makes it ideal for sensitive skin
- Hair removal agent: this wax can be used in depilatory waxes
- Emollient: softens and softens the skin

  • Use 
Dosages:
- creams: 2-5%
- balm: 5-10%

Applications: creams, balms, lip balms, lipsticks, eyeliner, mascaras, eye shadow, foundation, varnishes, depilatory waxes.
It can be used as a co-emulsifier with an emulsifying wax or beeswax to strengthen the hold of a cream.

Rice bran wax

Vegetable wax
INCI name: Rice bran wax/ Oryza Sativa Bran wax / Oryza sativa cera

Ideal for: MAKEUP, STYLING WAXES and CREAMS

Skin type: All
Origin : Vegetable: rice bran wax is a by-product of rice oil production. It is extracted from the husk of the rice grain
Ecology: Biodegradable

  • Technical characteristics :
Fusion point : 77-82°C
Soluble in: lipids
Density at 20°C: 0,950-0,960
Color : yellow orange
Appearance : lozenges
Smell : characteristic
Texture : silky, non-sticky
Properties :
- Protective: leaves a protective film on the skin
- Occlusive agent: it forms an impermeable film on the skin
- Gelling: this wax allows the creation of gels
- Hair conditioner: it adds substance, shine, gives volume to the hair and leaves it easy to comb, supple and soft

  • Use 
Rice bran wax is a very good alternative to beeswax.

Dosages:
- creams: 2-5%
- balms: 5-15%

Applications: creams, lotions, balms, lip balms, lipsticks, mascaras, eyeliner, sun care, hair care (styling wax for bard and hair).

Soy wax

Vegetable wax
INCI name: Hydrogenated soybean oil

Ideal for: BALMS and MASSAGE CANDLES

Skin type: All
Origin : Vegetable: this wax is obtained by hydrogenation of soybean oil from non-GMO soybean crops
Ecology: Biodegradable

  • Technical characteristics :
Fusion point : 52-54°C
Soluble in: lipids 
Density at 20°C: 0,920-0,925
Color : ivory white
Appearance : glitter or pellets
Smell : characteristic
Texture : smooth, shiny, silky, non-sticky
Properties :
- Protective: leaves an important protective film on the skin
- Nourishing and hydrating

  • Use 
Dosages:
- creams: 2-5%

Applications: Massage candles (do not burn because their melting point is low), balms, creams

Mimosa wax

Vegetable wax
INCI name: Acacia decurrens flower wax

Ideal for: BALMS and CREAMS

Skin type: All but ideal for sensitive skin
Origin : Vegetable: this wax is extracted from the mimosa flower
Ecology: Biodegradable

  • Technical characteristics :
Fusion point : 60-65°C
Soluble in: lipids
Density at 20°C: 0,950-0,990
Color : yellow-brown
Appearance : lozenges
Smell : mimosa
Texture : soft, creamy
Properties :
- Protective: leaves a protective film on the skin (equivalent to carnauba wax)
- Occlusive: it forms a waterproof film on the skin
- Emollient: it softens and softens the skin

  • Use 
Dosages:
- creams: 2-5%
- balms: 5-10%

Applications: creams, balms, lip balms, lipsticks, glosses

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